12 Days in May

I think I may have mentioned once or twice my plan to hike across England following Alfred Wainwrights Coast to Coast…not much to do with photography but it had been a challenge I set myself.

On Friday 3rd May, my walking partner and myself took the train to St.Bees in Cumbria ready to start the walk the following morning. And for the next 12 days we walked , around coastlines, through valleys, over mountains, alongside rivers and finally back to coastline. Passing through three of Englands National Parks along the way - The Lake District National Park, The Yorkshire Dales National Park and finally The North Yorkshire Moors National Park.

I had carried my Canon R7 plus two prime lenses (16mm and 32mm) with me to hopefully capture some of the area we were passing through.

Day 1 - Our first task was to choose a pebble to carry across the country and to wet our boots. Then it was on to ascending onto the headland above the seafront. By the time we had ascended on to the St.Bees headland the mist had rolled in and our views were very much limited to those of the path ahead, so much so that we even passed by the Lighthouse without seeing it. The weather was not going to improve and by the time we had passed through Cleator and were beginning to ascend Dent the rain had started and combined with strong wind it meant slower progress , especially when one of my contact lenses fell out and my perception of depth was badly affected. Still after 14.5miles we reached our overnight stay at Ennerdale Bridge and were able to both dry out and warm up.

Day 2 - A stroll to Ennerdale Water , where , considering the previous days rain, we chose the traditional South route around the lake , passing Robin Hoods Seat to reach a short up and down scramble before the very rocky path to the end of the lake. Now we trudged on through the forest track before reaching Black Sail Hut. A Youth Hostel in the most beautiful of locations. After refreshments it was time to ascend Loftbeck , a climb I had been dreading , but which was less fearsome in reality. Finally we reached Honister Slate Mine via their very uneven track, this gave us an energy lift (due to the Coffee and Cake) before our final descent to Seatoller our second overnight stop.

Day 3 - This one we should have split. Leaving Seatoller and heading for Rosthwaite there is a short stretch along the river where you need to use chains to help you across the rock. From Rosthwaite it is then just a very long climb upwards towards Lining Crag , where a vertical scramble awaits. The views down the valley here are incredible. After a short ascent to Greenup Edge there is the option of a high route or low route to Grasmere , of which we chose the latter - it is still a difficult path to walk being very rocky in places. Before reaching Grasmere , and due to time constraints, we turned our attention to the ascent towards Grisedale Tarn , again the path to this - if you take the right hand side of the valley is just a long slow climb on a fairly decent path before making the final ascent up towards Grisedale Tarn. Here I was hoping to stop for a few moments to take images, only for us to be hit with a torrential downpour , which made the path and our descent towards Patterdale very slippery. Our arrival in Patterdale at our overnight accommodation was more than two hours late but we were welcomed in and our pre-ordered food was ready , and very welcome.

Day 4 - After the previous days experience we took the opportunity to take a slightly different route to our next destination of Shap. Taking the Steamer from Glenrydding to Pooley Bridge, which included a flypast by the RAF, meant our days walking was reduced to just 11miles and had shallower gradients to overcome, it was a very warm day walking across fields of Lambs and Sheep and passing through some of the smallest stiles I have ever encountered. The heat was a definite factor on this hike and really sapped the strength even if the terrain was not so challenging. Arriving in Shap we had mistimed our walk and had a few minutes to wait until the famed Shap Chippy opened - we were definitely the first to take up residence and to get our food ordered. Then a walk through the town to reach our overnight stay.

Day 5 - Leaving Shap means the Lake District National Park had now been left behind. And we began to stroll through a different landscape, one littered with Limestone pavements rising up through the earth. This was to prove a fairly long day, both in distance and in time and we fully appreciated the rest we were able to get the previous day. On this day we passed by Robin Hoods Grave as we strolled over the moorland, Finally reaching Smardale Bridge we rested a few minutes before beginning what we thought would be a short walk to Kirkby Stephen - oh how wrong you can be. It turns out that Kirkby Stephen almost waits until you are entering its boundary before revealing itself. That evening we treated ourselves to an Indian meal and prepared ourselves for the next stretch.

Day 6 - Today would involve a 4 mile “gentle ascent” to Nine Standards Rigg , a curious collection of stone structures on top of the ridge line , leaving Kirkby Stephen in the distance. From the Nine Standards it is then decided for you based on the time of year as to which boggy path you will have to follow , the normal route at this time of year would take you to the former home of the Yorkshire Sheperdess and her family but more recently Ravenseat Farm has stopped serving cream teas to walkers. Our route for a little safety took us more directly across to the road connecting Kirkby Stephen to Keld. Following the road downwards brings you past Wain Wath , a small but lovely waterfall on the River Swale, before reaching Keld and our stopping point for the night. Here once again we bumped into other walkers we had already met on previous days and swapped stories of our journey so far. Keld marked the halfway point in distance on our walk - from here the distance to go would become less and less

Day 7 - Next destination would be Reeth , taking in Muker along the way and staying close to the River Swale. Today we walked along with another couple who were over from Australia , with the wife being originally from Korea - this gave my walking partner the opportunity to chat to someone from her own country in her own language. The route was pretty beautiful scenery crossing over farmland and hugging the river. Finally on reaching Reeth we treated ourselves to Ice Cream from the famous Ice cream parlour. Before heading across to our overnight accommodation.

Day 8 - An even shorter walk , once again mostly crossing farmland , to reach Richmond . The day was very sunny and warm but the walk was very pleasant overall , again we met some other walkers who we had last seen on Day 2 at Black Sail Hut. We strolled on avoiding the temptation of one of the famous honesty boxes , this one in a church, and made our way ever closer to Richmond , the largest town on the Coast to Coast Walk. Finally we passed the sign telling us we were in Richmond , although it was still another couple of miles distant this did give us a boost . Walking down into the bustling town centre we immediately sought out somewhere for a small lunch and chose a location off the main market area. We were soon joined by another couple of walkers who were breaking their walk at Richmond and taking the opportunity to visit the theatre. On reaching our pre-booked accommodation there was an issue caused due to miscommunication between the booking agents and the previous and new owners of the property - causing a bit of a scramble around to locate two replacement rooms , not easy when there was also a military reunion in town.

Day 9 - Having managed to get our overnight stay sorted we headed out on what was to be the longest walking day , the one with the least elevation change but equally the least visually appealing countryside to keep the mind occupied. The first part of the walk took in some stretches through woodland paths before crossing farmland to head towards the A1 - first though we were passed by a lot of riders on horses who were out on an endurance event. Passing under the A1 I managed to walk into a fallen tree and nearly knock some sense into myself. We now bumped into another walker we had first met a few days before, Jan from Australia was taking a longer period of time to walk the trail than us , but bravely was doing it alone , with all her family back in Australia there would be nobody at the finish to greet her. We would bump into Jan a couple of more times during the day. Next we reached Bolton on Swale and here stopped at the Church which is famous for its hospitality to walkers , and it lived up to the expectation , hot and cold drinks available and chocolate bars - here as it was Sunday a service had just ended as we arrived but the congregation still welcomed us in. Onwards towards Danby Wiske , and this section included a lot of walking along very quiet rural roads punctuated by crossing fields. The walking was strenuous as it was long and the day was hot with little shade in some parts. Reaching Danby Wiske we still had several miles to our final destination , but took full advantage of Isabels Tuck shop at the camp site (as the pub was shut until 4pm) - here was a dazzling array of goodies on offer , drinks, sweets, fruit, ice creams…all at really fair prices too. There are also toilet facilities and a tap to fill up water containers….again much needed. Now the last stretch and this really did push our strength to the limit , with aching feet and limbs we continued , before finally reaching Ingleby Cross - after doging traffic on the very busy A19. Our plan was to eat in the Blue Bell Inn , but on arrival at around 7 we found out that on Sunday food service had ended at 5pm. So after a quick drink and some crisps we trudged onwards to our overnight stay , where thankfully our host offered us a sandwich - most welcome and a fantastic place to stay.

Day 10 - The long walk to the Lion Inn. Initially our hike took us upwards and onto the North Yorkshire moors , where we began to follow the Cleveland Way , a national trail to be tried another time. This trail begins through woodland areas and with some gentle ascents and descents before turning to climb up Gold Hill towards Carlton Bank and the descent to reach Lordstones where a very welcome rest point is located here we met up with Lloyd who we would walk most of the way to the Lion Inn with. After Lordstones it is a series of ups and downs. Passing the Wainstones , White Hill and Clay Bank Top on the way to the summit of Round Hill to reach Bloworth Crossing and the point where for today we say goodbye to the Cleveland way. From these summits in the very far distance we got our first glimpses of the North Sea and our end target. After that the trackway to reach the Lion Inn was a tortuous six mile stretch of former mine track with sharp stones to probe at already sore and aching feet. Here was where I almost had to stop, almost. Taking two paracetamols and some Dextrose tablets my strength was renewed enough to push onwards and to keep up with my walking partner. Lloyd had forged ahead by this point and was already starting to eat his evening meal when we finally arrived - once again to meet some other walkers we had seen earlier on in the hike. The Lion Inn was was a very welcome surprise with great food and a lovely atmosphere to it and very peaceful for a great nights sleep.

Day 11 - The downward path. Today the objective was a short , 10miles to Egton Bridge which would leave us just over 17miles from our end point at Robin Hoods Bay. My feet were still in a bad way and took some time to get going , despite having been taped and covered in foot cream. And with Rain now lightly hitting us we took our time to cross moorland and roads to reach the track which would take us to Glaisdale , the walk over the moors was very refreshing after the hot days we had previously endured. Descending down into Glaisdale we found what had been an ongoing theme on our walk , closed tearooms and shops - something which began way back in Cleator on day 1. This time we couldn’t locate a tearoom we had heard of so ended up strolling down to The Arncliffe Arms for a sandwich and beer. Moving on for the final mile and a half we passed the Beggars Bridge and crossed through Glaisdale woods to reach Egton Bridge and our final overnight stop before Robin Hoods Bay , here the Horseshoe Hotel also offers a small cafe for those just passing through.

Day 12 - The final push. Onwards from the hotel we took a short detour to cross some stepping stones (not really on the trail but a bit of fun) , then passing across what is the driveway to Egton Manor to join a footpath through towards Grosmont. Walking through Grosmont is a little like stepping back in time as the North Yorkshire Moors Railway passes through here with a level crossing right in the town. For us there were no trains waiting at the station so we pressed on. From Grosmont there is a delightful two mile long walk uphill to reach Sleights Moor crossing this to reach the manic A169 which is to be crossed to begin the descent to Littlebeck to pass through Littlebeck wood on the way towards Falling Foss , there are a few sharp inclines in the woods and upon reaching Falling Foss there was the welcome sight (finally) of Scones with Jam and Cream and Coffee. Break Over we then ascended out from Old May Beck to begin crossing Fylingdales Moor. The Moorland towards Hawsker was very boggy in places and energy was sapped just finding routes through the marshy areas. Finally we joined a road and walked into High Hawsker to take a brief rest break with only 4 miles to walk. The final stretch is reached by passing through a caravan park before re-joining the Cleveland Way to walk along the cliff top to Robin Hoods Bay. The walk down to the Bay Hotel is a steep incline after 17miles but soon the end is reached. With my partner Linda there to greet us. Now just the tradition of throwing our pebble into the North Sea , taking photos and signing the Coast to Coast book in Wainwrights Bar. The it was off for Fish and Chips and a well earned rest..

So with that finished and some money raised for Charity it is back to the harsh reality of work…oh and also time to return to photography…